Monday July 25 - Day 25 Current Location: Saskatoon, SK Distance Traveled: 12,670km Waking up this morning on the train, I was pleased to see we were almost in Saskatoon. Despite being late, I kind of prefer this slight lateness so I could sleep in on the train. Most of the infants in my train car had finally settled in, and it made for a peaceful night. And I was in Saskatchewan now - a brand new province, and the last one I've never visited! The only problem was the train wasn't a little late - we didn't get to Saskatoon until Noon, four hours late. I knew this was going to be a snag in my touring of the city today, so I hopped in a taxi (the only taxi!) and went immediately to my first destination of the day. The taxi had red seat covers with a dragon on it, and my driver Ibrahim also pointed out parts of the city as we drove. I was expecting the prairies here to be dry, especially in the summer afternoon. But the heat was also noticeably strong, and the sun was beating down heavily. Most of my walking around (suitcase in tow) wasn't until later in the day once it had cooled down a bit. My host family here, Jack and Danielle, would be working until tonight. So I was touring by myself to start the day. The major tourist attraction in the city is the Western Development Museum, which is dedicated to the history and culture of Saskatchewan through the 20th century. Inside there are a few major exhibitions about the history of farming and immigration, but the biggest hall is a full recreation of an entire Western Canadian town in operation. All the buildings are full scale and in tact, some of them even populated with people in costume. The town is designed to show Saskatoon, or "Boomtown" as it was called, in the year 1910, shortly after it became a province and joined the dominion of Canada. Also on display was a number of classic cars fully restored, and a hall showing old agricultural equipment through history. My late lunch was inside the museum's saloon and restaurant, preserved the same way local cafes and homes would service travellers. I had an iced tea, bacon cheese dog with fried onions, and best of all, PIE. I absolutely had to try the famous Saskatoon Berry Pie - stuffed with Saskatoon berries and blueberries, in the butteriest crust you've ever tasted. Lunch was good, but that pie was heavenly. Next to my grandmother's Strawberry Shortcake in New Brunswick, this might be the best dessert i've had all month. And it was inside a history museum. Kudos to Sally in the kitchen who makes these pie slices 6 days a week. It - was - perfect. Another special exhibit was the train gallery, filled with real steam trains that used to operate across the prairies fifty years ago. It showed different locomotives and passenger cars - but there was one steam engine (shown below) where guests were allowed inside the main room to see how the engines were built and worked. My stepdad Steve has always been fascinated by trains, and all I could think about was how jealous he would be. There were also model trains and a town recreation, but this engine room I knew was a rare thing. I couldn't get better pictures because the room was small, though it wasn't crowded because I was visiting on a Tuesday afternoon. The last highlight of the museum was a weaving and spinning demonstration done in the "town's" quilting shop. These women are volunteers who work in the museum and spin everything by hand, selling their work and all profits going to the museum. Below is Terri, showing how to spin raw wool into yarn on a traditional spinning wheel. The women were all lovely to chat with, and each loved sharing stories about their families here and some of the quilts they've made. From left to right is Jennifer, Bunny, Terri and her daughter Cara, who's just tarted learning how to weave herself. Leaving the museum, I took a city bus into the downtown core of the city, and had a snack while also walking through the city and surrounding parks. The city was incredibly modest, but it also featured a high number of independent, trendy stores and restaurants. My hosts would later tell me the city has been undergoing a massive redesign for new tourists and residents of the city. To the east of Saskatoon's downtown edge is the Saskatchewan River, the longest in the province. The sun started setting as I walked along the side, giving it a beautiful amber glow. There were a number of sculptures and artworks on the trails and pathways done by local artists and students from the nearby University. And tucked around the bridge on the boat docks of the River is a theatrical treasure I was hunting down - the Shakespeare Festival on the Saskatchewan. Every summer the company performs Shakespeare plays outside by the riverfront. There was a bar and cafe, live bands, tables and local vendors outside in a small marketplace before the evening's main event. Tonight's performance was Twelfth Night, one of Shakespeare's more famous comedies, being staged as a pioneer concert in a Western dance hall. When I went to the box office, they told me tonight's show was completely sold out, and I would have to come back. Ouch. Luckily, I have a talent for getting tickets to hot shows no matter where i go. (Last year, I waited in a line to see the musical Hamilton for five days. And you bet I got in!). I explained I was traveling by train and only in town for tonight; I would take any seat, or even pay just to stand at the back of the theatre. After ten minutes, they found an empty wheelchair seat nobody had claimed for the night, and sold it to me. Normally the seats are reserved for theatregoers in wheelchairs, but ten minutes before the show was supposed to start, they said it would be okay if I used it tonight. (This is a standard practice for sold-out shows close to curtain.) Once inside, the cast was out performing a concert with banjos, fiddles, harmonicas and aboriginal drums. What a party! My seat was outstanding, in the centre of the third row. The show was an absolute blast, and perhaps the best production of the play i've ever seen. The actors as Sir Andrew and Feste especially were near perfect, and the original bluegrass music and songs made the show really pop. It was a great setting for a fabulous show. Special thanks to Leslie in the box office for helping me get in tonight - thank you. Late after the show ended, I met with Jack and Danielle who took me to their home. They are friends of my Uncle Bob in Edmonton, and when they heard about my trip they offered to let me stay with them here in Saskatoon for two nights. As you can see, they have an exciting basement with books, toys, and a massive collection of video games and DVDs. Their sons were already asleep for the night, and I knew I would be too. I have another early morning for travel tomorrow, so I enjoyed a hot shower and a proper bed to lie down in. You know, I almost didn't get to visit Saskatchewan because of my busy itinerary, but after the tracks to Churchill in Manitoba flooded, I suddenly had two extra days, and decided to stop here. I'm so glad I did; because the warmth and charm of Saskatoon have been utterly captivating. Today's a big win indeed.
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